Two bean-rich recipes to save the earth
I'm not quite saving the earth here, but I've got two comforting, nourishing meals that celebrate all that Mother Earth gives us.
There’s an exhibition about soil at Somerset House (who knew dirt could be so fascinating?). It is all about the world beneath our feet - the most biodiverse place on the planet.
Electron microscopes revealing tiny creatures. Sound art capturing the hum of roots drawing water. Psychedelic films showing fungi networks glowing like motorways.
Before leaving the exhibition, they ask people - mainly kids - to write down their ‘recipe to save earth'. The answers are innocently straightforward, unburdened by any ‘big picture’ considerations.
The exhibition coinciding with Mother's Day on Sunday (in the UK), I thought about what my recipes to save (mother) earth would be?
I chose ingredients that tread lightly on the earth. Ingredients that Mother Earth gives us in abundance.
Beans are brilliant—far less thirsty than livestock, good for soil health, and capable of feeding many mouths from a single bag (We’ve got something fun coming in the next few weeks with Bold Bean Co that may prove my obsession!). Then there are molluscs, like clams and mussels, which actually filter and improve water quality as they grow. (If you want to know more about planet-friendly eating, this article has most of the answers)...
There’s a lot we’re told we should be doing to help Mother Earth - big, overwhelming things that make you want to hide under the duvet and pretend the whole crisis isn’t happening (...something we’re all guilty of).
And even when we do try, so much of the advice is contradictory. Is it better to buy the local option wrapped in plastic or the plastic-free one that’s travelled halfway across the world?
Still, I can’t help but notice that many traditional ways of eating - Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, and much of East Asian cooking - have instinctively known what to do for centuries. Lots of beans and grains, just a bit of meat, and a deep respect for what’s in season.
At my restaurants, we've been taking some small steps. At ROVI, we fry leftover herb stems into tempura (tossed with Sichuan pepper) instead of throwing them out. The ones that don’t crisp up well (or any excess produce) will go into oils and sauces or into jars to ferment for months. At our delis, we work with The Felix Project1 whenever we can, making sure good food doesn’t go to waste.
There's a wonderful community of producers who, in my view, are getting this right - people like Wildfarmed, nourishing the soil while growing wheat; Hodmedods, on a mission to revive British-grown beans and pulses; Two Fields, sharing knowledge as much as selling olive oil; Shrub; or Namayasai Farm, growing the most extraordinary Japanese vegetables in East Sussex, of all places.
This week, two recipes that can make a modest difference. Both beany, hearty, forgiving. Fitting for both Mother Earth and the mother you might be celebrating on Sunday.
Clams, Beans, Greens and Cream(s)
Some of the best fish comes out of jars or tins. I love their intensity - all that briny depth that seems to concentrate over time. Smoked oysters on crackers are my current obsession (or in soups and stews!).
For this recipe, I've turned to jarred clams. Yes, fresh are beautiful, but there's a certain convenience - and reliable deliciousness - to the jarred variety. No cleaning, no steaming, no anxious checking to see which ones have opened.
We stew rainbow chard in cream, fold in white beans, and let those briney clams flavour the whole thing. A bright herb sauce cuts through all that richness. It's a one-pot affair that comes together in about 25 minutes, mostly from jars and cans.
Serve with crusty bread for mopping up all those juices, or spoon it over wild rice if you're after something a bit more substantial.
Tahini, Beans & Orzo with Orange and Tomato
In Greece, there's a soup called tahinosoupa that's traditionally eaten during Lent. Our version brings a little more substance - something between a stew and a soup.
Tahini coats each bean and grain of orzo, creating this luxurious creaminess (without any cream). The blood orange (use regular if you can't find them) cuts through with brightness, with a non-negotiable mound of parsley to finish things off.
This is a meal all in itself - light enough for a warm day, comforting when it’s cold…useful, given that March in the UK can swing between both in the space of an afternoon.
Serves 6 | Prep 15 minutes (+ overnight soak) | Cook 2 hours
Ingredients
300g dry pinto beans, soaked overnight in plenty of cold water