Springtime Sides
Language barriers, green beans and everything on the side, please!
The latter half of last month’s tour took me through North America. San Francisco, Washington, Seattle, Vancouver, Ottawa. I rarely get to act on the many recommendations that flood in as I pass through these cities - the extent of my eating is mostly hotel breakfasts and late-night room service, which I say without complaint. Three club sandwiches in a week is a win (although I do often wonder why hotel menus are so standardised).
I tried to make time for breakfast where I could - I didn’t want to miss the charm of a diner. I’d order eggs and the questions would begin. How do you want them? What bread? Hash browns or home fries? Bacon, sausage or ham? Would you like to add a fruit cup for a dollar?
The North American diner is essentially a modular breakfast - a flat-top grill full of components, ready to be assembled however you like. Good service means giving you every possible option and waiting patiently while you choose. Choices, choices, choices. Which is lovely, of course, but also, at 7.30am, before coffee, a lot.
In Canada, a further complication: yes and no don’t always mean yes and no. For those who need help, study this carefully:
I landed back in London. The choices continued - different ones, though.
Asparagus has arrived again. Radishes with their long tops still on, fresh peas, young carrots, wild garlic, forced rhubarb so aggressively pink. Young soft herbs - tarragon, chervil, chives.
How can I choose? I want every single one of them. Yeah, no, fer sure - all of it please.
Luckily, with a big celebratory lunch to cook for - see last week’s centrepieces - I have every excuse not to choose at all.
Two sides this week for your spring celebrations. Carrots roasted with spiced dates, jammy and caramelised, finished with pickled red onions and fresh herbs. And green beans with goma dare - a Japanese sesame sauce, richer and darker than tahini, thanks to the addition of mirin and soy.
Spring has sprung. Fill the table!
Sticky date spiced carrots
The dressing for these roasted carrots is made by melting dates with roughly chopped lemon and baharat to create a tangy, smokey and sweet sauce. It’s balanced out by the bright pickled onions and herbs. This can be served warm or at room temperature.
Green bean and black rice salad with goma dare
This salad has two dressings (trust me, it’s worth it): a nutty and creamy tahini based sauce inspired by Japanese goma dare, and a quick vinaigrette that gets absorbed by the fresh vegetables and rice. Shocking the greens in ice cold water is important to avoid overcooking and turning them soggy. Both dressings can be made in advance, as well as the blanching of the beans. Hold the mint back if you are not serving it straight away and dress everything when you are ready to serve.
