Christmas Centrepiece: Celebration Rice
Grandeur can come with feathers…or as a striking rice cake. Still, if you don’t fancy going cold turkey when it comes to tradition, we’ve got a turkey recipe for you too.
In my house, I have to fess up, it’s almost always turkey. There, I’ve said it. As much as I’d love to boast that my Christmas is different, tradition rules the holiday roost in the Ottolenghi household.
And yet, and that’s a big yet, there are points of difference. Tradition, with a twist, or two, or three.
The simple roasted Turkey that we love often comes, instead of gravy, with a super sharp sauce made with mint, coriander, cumin, lemon and white wine, a classic created years ago by Sami Tamimi. It is still my favourite turkey (or chicken) accompaniment. Try it! If you’re not cooking a breast, but a whole Turkey, skip the marinating stage. Just roast the turkey as you would normally–Alison Roman’s got you covered with all the tips you’ll need–and simply cook down the marinade in a pan as instructed, and serve alongside the carved bird.
There’s more room to play, when it comes to turkey, than you’d imagine. This list is brilliant.
My test kitchen colleague Chaya was in charge of our turkey this year, so there was only one way it was going to go: spiced, ghee-roasted and full of tamarind. The toasted spices and tamarind in the marinade do the heavy lifting, tenderising the meat and infusing it with depth, while crispy curry leaves add a crunch. It’s big, celebratory, and satisfying. Just make sure to plan ahead for marinating time–and the all important rest-time.
To avoid waste, the majority of the testing process for this recipe was actually done with chicken. It tasted great so feel free to sub the turkey for two chickens. This will save you substantial cooking time.
I take the same approach to my sides as I do with turkey: tradition, but with a twist. Like my all-time favourite slaw using Brussel sprouts, or roasting carrots with pilpelchuma, or red cabbage, vibrant and crisp instead of stewed into submission, with radicchio and pomegranate. We created a collection of Christmas recipes on our website for more festive inspiration.
Ghee roast turkey with crispy curry leaves
Back to my holiday centrepiece, I know I started off by putting turkey on a garland pedestal, but if I had to choose something else, it would have to be a golden-crusted, herb and nut loaded, aubergine layered, yoghurt drenched Celebration Rice. It’s the kind of dish that feels special before you’ve even tasted it: the pan being flipped onto a platter, the gentle release of steam, the reveal of a perfect golden crust.
Most of the elements can be prepared a day or two before, leaving only the final assembly and baking for the big day—an important consideration on the busiest day your kitchen sees all year.
Your feast, like mine, may centre around a spiced turkey. Or maybe it’s a celebration rice. Or a table heavy with only sides. Maybe it’s all of the above. There’s no single way to do it; the magic lies in the interplay—how the richness of one dish complements the brightness of another.
Take care of your rice
Take care of your rice and it will take care of you. Wash the grains at least three times to remove excess starch. Soak them in fresh water for an hour–or, if you have time, overnight. When it’s time to cook, parboil the rice in salted, cinnamon-spiced water for seven minutes. The grains should be al dente, holding their shape without breaking. Once done, drain, rinse, and get ready for the real magic: the steam.
When you fasten the tea towel around the lid of your pot, be careful that it doesn’t touch the rice—this way, it’ll absorb the steam and keep the grains separate, stopping them from becoming soggy. Allow the rice to cook gently on low heat for an hour, resisting the urge to peek. When it’s finally done, the rice will be light, fluffy, and perfectly cooked.
How to build flavour
This dish is all about layers. Take the time to treat each part with care—many can be prepared in advance.
The onions
Cook them low and slow. It may feel indulgent to take thirty minutes, but this is how they release their natural sweetness and deepen in flavour. Add your spices early on and let the onions temper them, drawing out their warmth without allowing them to burn. This slow, patient process is what creates the depth that will carry the dish.
The aubergines
Trim the ends first, then slice the aubergines in half and cut them into 3–4cm pieces at an angle. Why this shape? It gives you four surfaces to work with: the skin side stays firm and makes contact with the hot tray, while the other three sides release moisture and concentrate the flavour. Rounds of aubergine tend to turn soggy.
When it’s time to roast, don’t skimp on the oil. Aubergines are like little sponges, and they need plenty of oil to crisp up and develop that beautiful golden colour. When they’re ready, they’ll be slightly charred at the edges, soft inside, and almost sweet—perfectly roasted and full of flavour.
The yoghurt
In the Eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East, it’s common to serve a yoghurt sauce with rice dishes. Sometimes, it’s warm, like you’d have with Shish barak or with our grilled courgettes.
A Parchment what?
A parchment cartouche may seem Victorian, but it does wonders. The idea is to place a snug piece of parchment directly on the surface of your dish, to stop the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pot and help get that perfect crispy top. Once you’ve done it once, you’ll have it down.
The rest of your Christmas plate
As for the rest of your Christmas dinner, keep it simple with a mix of roasted vegetables—brussels sprouts, green beans, or any root vegetables you have on hand. The only thing to avoid (which may cause some controversy) is bread sauce–the yoghurt sauce will act as the creamy side.
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Celebration rice with aubergine and dill yoghurt
Serves 6-8 as a Christmas centrepiece
Prep time 30 minutes
Soaking time 1 hour or overnight
Cook time 1 hour and 40 minutes